Prolan vs. Lanoguard: Which Rust-Preventative Spray Is Better?

Prolan vs. Lanoguard: Why one type of anti-rust spray is not enough for your car

As a car enthusiast, you know how painful it is: the first brown spots on your chassis. Whether you want to preserve a classic vintage car or protect your daily driver against the harsh Dutch winters full of road salt, good rust protection is essential.

In recent years, environmentally friendly products based on lanolin (wool fat) have conquered the market.
No more smelly, thick black bitumen or Tectyl that secretly traps moisture, but transparent natural protection.
The Lanoguard brand has made a significant name for itself in this market with its convenient universal DIY kits.

But when we look technically at the underside of a car, the question arises: can a single spray really optimally protect every zone?
The honest answer is no.
And that is exactly why Prolan (available at Fawkes Rev) is rapidly conquering the premium rust protection market.
View our pre-assembled kits.

Image: before Prolan | 6 months after 1st layer of Prolan after the salty winter of 25/26.

Over time, the rust has turned completely black, and in one spot, loose paint has already come off. You can touch up such spots in 15 minutes with Prolan.
Prolan is always colourless and low-odour.

The problem with the 'One-Size-Fits-All' approach

The underside of a car takes a beating, but not every zone is stressed in the same way:

• The wheel arches: Litres of water, mud, and stone chips are thrown against them. A spray that is too thin and universal can be washed away here due to constant friction.
• Inside the box sections and cavities: Here you need an extremely thin, highly penetrating liquid that penetrates the smallest weld seams through capillary action (deep penetration into narrow crevices).
  With a slightly thicker spray for the walls of these cavities.
• Bolts, nuts, and moving parts: These need a thick, greasy paste that does not run off, so that they can still be easily loosened after five or ten years.

If an anti-rust agent is thin enough to be sprayed everywhere from a single universal trigger bottle (like Lanoguard), there is a chance it will be washed away in the wheel arches and is too thick to creep deep into micro-weld seams (panel seams).

Prolan: The power of a multi-grade system

Prolan takes a fundamentally different approach. Instead of one product for the entire car, Prolan offers a technically developed system of different thicknesses (grades). This gives each part exactly the protection it needs.

Here is how the different Prolan grades compare to the standard universal approach:

Prolan Grade	Structure & Property	Ideal For	The advantage over Lanoguard
Prolan 170 Medium	Ultra-penetrating, liquid.	Box sections, cavities, door seams, weld seams.	Creeps deeper into microscopic crevices where thicker sprays cannot reach.
Prolan 270 Heavy	Durable protective layer.	Engine compartment, protection in sheltered areas	Creeps well and leaves a solid protective layer
Prolan 300 Enduro	Wear-resistant barrier.	Floor plates, engine compartment, suspension, wheel arches	The all-rounder for good protection
Prolan 350 Extreme	Heavy coating.	Wheel arches, heavy protection	Extra protection under the most demanding conditions
Prolan 450 Grease	Thick assembly paste.	Nuts, bolts, extremely demanding conditions	Stays perfectly in place on heavy friction points. Prevents seized bolts.

 

Lanolin doesn't have to smell

Lanolin is a byproduct of sheep, so it can also smell (or stink) strongly of sheep. Some people find this sheep pen smell stinky and others do not.

With Lanoguard, this smell lingers around your car for several weeks, and on warm parts sometimes even for months.

Prolan barely has an odour to begin with. So you won't stink when applying it and your car won't smell for the following weeks.

This is because Lanoguard is 'farmhouse quality', and Prolan is of industrial quality.
This means that Prolan is much purer than Lanoguard.
You can also see it in the colour; Lanoguard has a green tint and Prolan is virtually colourless.
Because of this, Prolan even has certification for use in the food industry.

The ultimate test: High-pressure cleaning and shelf life

The biggest stumbling block for many lanolin sprays is the car wash or the pressure washer after a day of off-roading. Because standard lanolin sprays remain relatively soft and liquid, you accidentally spray the protective layer out of the wheel arches after a few times with some other products.

Prolan was specifically developed to withstand this. After application, the product cures (dries) into a solid, non-sticky wax layer. This layer is resistant to water pressure of up to 170 bar. So you can safely spray your car thoroughly after a salty winter drive without immediately washing away all your rust protection.

In addition, Prolan has a unique property: it has an electrical insulation value of up to 70 kV. This means you can safely spray it over electronics, plugs, and alternators without fear of short circuits or damaged rubber.

The Fawkes Rev Step-by-Step Guide: How to treat your car like a pro

1.  Preparation
   1. Make sure the underside of the car is clean and dry. If necessary, remove loose rust flakes with a wire brush. Prolan stops rust immediately by sealing out oxygen, so fortunately, intensive sanding down to bare metal is not necessary.
   2. Cover brakes and (drive) belts.
2.  Lubricate mounting points (optional)
   1. Lubricate all exposed screw threads, brake line nipples, and suspension mounting points with Prolan 450 Grease. If you ever need to do maintenance, you can still easily loosen everything after years.
3.  Reinforce impact zones (optional)
   1. Spray the wheel arches and the most exposed parts of the suspension with Prolan 350 Extreme. This provides the hard, extra high-pressure-resistant barrier that will absorb the heaviest mechanical impacts in the coming years.
4.  Coat the underbody
   1. Apply Prolan 300 Enduro to the entire underside of the car (also rubbers, brake hoses, and suspension). This forms the flexible, self-healing base layer that is resistant to road salt and splashing water. It also protects against UV and drying out.
5.  Inject weld seams and panel seams (optional)
   1. Use Prolan 170 Medium with a lance (cavity hose). Spray this deep into the box sections, sills, and the inside of the doors. The liquid creeps into the panel seams by itself to smother rust from the inside.
6.  Inject the cavities
   1. Use Prolan 270 (or 300) with a lance (cavity hose). Spray this deep into the box sections, sills, and the inside of the doors.
      This will ultimately protect all the walls of these cavities.

Did you know? Lanolin is naturally chemically resistant to acids, salts, and road salt. Prolan enhances this natural property by structuring the molecules so that they bond extremely strongly to the metal surface, without the product ever peeling or cracking like traditional Tectyl.

Conclusion: Why Prolan is the premium upgrade

Lanoguard is a great off-the-shelf product for anyone looking for a quick and easy universal, temporary spray. But as a car enthusiast, you probably don't settle for 'good enough'. You want protection that holds up in the wheel arches, that creeps deep enough into the box sections, and that doesn't disappear at the first intensive car wash.
And when you are finished, you don't have to be constantly reminded of the smell of sheep.

With Prolan's multi-grade system, you choose targeted, industrial quality that is adapted to the harsh reality of Dutch roads.

Ready to permanently put rust out of the game? View the full Prolan rust protection range at Fawkes Rev and put together your perfect, uncompromising protection kit.

Or leave the assembly to us and choose between the pre-assembled kits.